Starling – Michelin star bistro
Starling in Esher, Surrey is the first solo restaurant from Great British Menu winner Nick Beardshaw, Tom Kerridge’s former head chef, and it’s already won its first Michelin star.
Starling celebrates British produce in a relaxed atmosphere, and while the food is certainly fine dining, there’s no sense of pretention or elitism, with the restaurant describing itself as a ‘neighbourhood bistro’. Offering house cocktails once we were seated, I can certainly recommend the spicy margarita.
'Snacks’: Tuna tartare hash brown / Truffle & parmesan crumpets
In keeping with its ‘bistro’ theme, the menu offers ‘snacks’ which can be enjoyed before the meal (without spoiling your appetite). We shared two between the two of us, and as good as the rest of the meal was, the snacks came very close to stealing the show.
The tuna tartare hash brown was incredible; the hash brown itself was crisp and indulgent, while the tuna tartare topping practically melts in your mouth. The avocado mousse added a little extra moisture, while the spring onion garnish added a bit of bite – a near perfect dish.
The truffle and parmesan crumpets are perhaps the embodiment of a simple idea executed well. The crumpet itself was one of the nicest I’ve ever had, toasted to perfection so that the outside was crispy and the inside was lusciously buttery, and then it was topped with 36-month aged parmesan and truffle shavings. I could have easily just had a meal of ‘snacks’ when they’re this delicious.
Starter: Prawn ‘scotch egg’
I was intrigued by the idea of a prawn ‘scotch egg’, and this was a very interesting starter, with a (perfectly cooked) egg encased in minced prawns and breadcrumbs (the closest thing I can compare it to is an elevated prawn toast). But what made the dish sing was the roasted shell sauce – the depth of flavour from the sauce was incredible, and took the dish to whole other level.
Main course: 30-day dry-aged cote-de-boeuf (for two)
We shared the 800g cote-de-boeuf, with peppercorn sauce and triple-cooked chips. The dish was a simple concept, but executed perfectly; the steak was packed full of flavour (as you’d expect from 30-day dry-aged beef) and perfectly charred on the outside while still succulent in the middle – medium-rare, but without leaving pools of ‘blood’ on the plate, showing that it had been well-rested before serving. As we were served the whole (carved) cote-de-boeuf, we got to enjoy the particularly flavoursome meat on the bone and the melt-in-the-mouth fat as well, and the steak was paired brilliantly with the (not overpowering) peppercorn sauce. To cap it all off, the triple-cooked chips were precisely how I like them (super crispy!).
Dessert: ‘Balloon Girl’, from the Great British Menu 2023
‘Balloon Girl’ has almost become Nick Beardshaw’s signature dish, and it’s a playfully theatrical dessert served in a picture frame that pays homage to Banksy’s artwork that self-shredded at auction in 2018. The dish mimics the shredding with strips of flavoured rice paper coming from the bottom of the picture frame, while the stencil of the girl is reproduced in a rich chocolate torte, and the balloon in a light and refreshing raspberry cheesecake. A light-hearted but delicious end to the meal.
“…relaxed & accessible while still providing food of the highest calibre…”
Overall impression: In the current economic climate, it’s not an easy thing to open a new Michelin-starred restaurant, but Starling’s approach seems to be based around remaining approachable and accessible while still providing food of the highest calibre. Its relaxed and welcoming atmosphere may appeal to some diners who are put off by the more formal fine dining restaurants, and the location out of central London (but still only 20 minutes from Waterloo by train) keeps the prices (and, no doubt, operating costs) a little more manageable.
Although the atmosphere was relaxed, the staff and service were impeccable – attentive and friendly, and offering helpful advice (when asked) about dishes and wine recommendations. The decor was modern and stylish, with playful artwork and a light colour scheme, which combined with the restaurant’s large windows made it feel bright and open on a summer’s evening, while still feeling intimate.
A first class dining experience - this new kind on the block is definitely worth checking out.
